Painful Parting
Austin: Fri, 09/04/2009 - 07:34Image: Bottom Graphic
http://www.twostatesaway.com/sites/default/files/node_images/pp__0000_pp.jpg*Bottom Graphic^http://www.twostatesaway.com/sites/default/files/node_images/pp__0001_pp.jpg*Bottom (Signature & Dimensions Etched In)^http://www.twostatesaway.com/sites/default/files/node_images/pp__0002_pp.jpg*Front Fin Design (Quad Setup)^http://www.twostatesaway.com/sites/default/files/node_images/pp__0003_pp.jpg*Tail Stamp^
As I begin the process towards a short stay back on the continent, I start thinking about that which I will miss. I have to say that the thing that I'll miss the most is the surf.
When I first tried it 5 months ago, I didn't have the patience, the balance, the awareness, the judgment, the strength, the endurance, or the understanding that it takes to see why so many people talk about it as this "Amazing" thing.
I eventually found an "in" by discovering the stand-up paddle board. (not shown here) It eliminated a few of the shortcomings listed above and afforded me the insight to the others. I eventually bought this long board. Its 10'2" long, 23 1/4" wide, and 3/4" thick and it really gets the job done. I have been riding this my last three days here and have really turned the page on my ability to ride waves.
As to the "Amazing" thing that is surfing, I guess I can only speak for my self. Now, with about 4 months of surfing and observing an average of 5 days a week, I have come to the conclusion that its all about being in the water. Riding waves is just a valid excuse to be out in the ocean so often.
